It has been an interesting year. Just past the midway point and I had expected my travels to dissipate, but they seem to have accelerated. By now, I am so seasoned that I know where I really want to spend my time. I'm lucky to have seen so much of the world to date and now able to refine my destinations to those where I feel the most connected, and with the satisfaction factor turned up to 100.

I did not expect to land back on the island of Bali. It was the last destination I had considered returning to, after so many great memories some decades back. This past March I had some time booked in Singapore for a conference, which was cancelled last minute. With a non-refundable airfare and no real purpose or desire to spend a week in Singapore, I decided to instead have some well-earned downtime, by flying off to an easy to reach Asian destination.

Being the off-season, I took my chances on Bali. I had quietly wanted to return to Ubud, having only been there once over twenty years ago. I was aware of the possible crowds but having seen so many spectacular resorts open there in recent years, I felt it was time to experience one that has been on my radar for many years.

Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve has been written about, praised and gushed over ever since it opened ten years ago. Now having won every conceivable best-of-the-best award, from Forbes Five Stars, to Michelin 3-Keys (quite an achievement), Fodor's Finest, The Worlds 50 Best Hotels, and the list goes on, it is considered one of Asia's top 3 resorts and one of the very best in the world.

Awards proudly on display at Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Resort

Arriving in March, I managed to book a good deal at a reasonable price. Though not inexpensive by any means, my three-night stay had some fabulous inclusions: a noon check-in, a room upgrade (from a Suite to a Pool Villa), Breakfast daily, a 4.00pm late check-out and five pieces of clothing laundered each day. Very good indeed.

But the clincher for me was the additional benefit of USD$500 resort credit per stay. This is huge! With the power of the AUD / USD exchange rate, effectively this amount meant that my stay, if handled carefully, would be all-inclusive. All meals over the three days + a spa treatment could be no extra outlay. And that's exactly how it turned out.

You may think, why stay at the resort the whole time, how dull. Well, not this place. What unfurled over my four day stay proved to be the cream of the crop. I can say without hesitation that Mandapa is the single best resort property I have ever stayed in during all my years of luxury travel.

They have created the most exceptional experience here that attracts all ages of traveller. This is incredibly hard to pull off. During my stay I observed how the property was run and how well they did it, how they made me feel and the finer details of what makes Mandapa an incredible stay.

My biggest concern before booking was the fact that the property is under the Marriott umbrella. It's a Ritz-Carlton, but an even higher tier, the highest of them all. A "Reserve". One of only nine Reserve properties in the world. They are the most exclusive tier of the brand, focusing on intimate, highly personalized service and deep cultural immersion in remote, rare destinations, rather than traditional, large-scale luxury. I found the choice of Ubud interesting. Would they pull that off? Was I about to have an elevated American resort stay, full of American travellers and a completely non-Balinese experience?

How wrong those thoughts proved to be. Plunging down the valley to the rushing Ayung River, the resort is completely sympathetic to the surrounds. With only 60 keys comprising 35 suites and 25 private pool & riverfront villas, Mandapa is designed as a Balinese village, it has its own ecosystem, with everything in tune. Exemplary Balinese service overflows here, with every member exuding genuine warmth with every "Bapak Stephen" spoken to me accompanied by beaming smiles.

The accommodations are exquisite, with quality fittings and furnishings and a perfect blend of Balinese and modern Western flourishes. What is so striking upon arrival and evident throughout your stay is the sense of place. The property was designed around the river which flows right through it. Nature is fully embraced here, the temples, the rice paddies, the sloping landscape. This is not manufactured; it has its own natural essence.

When I travel, it's the food that is numero uno for me. With four dining venues here, each with their own stamp, I was genuinely amazed at the quality of the food and the carefully curated menus. Here food lovers can indulge their discovery desires and also be covered for comfort cravings. It's all here. Magically undiscovered dishes abound, with vibrant, local tastes from sustainable produce.

For a resort of this size, the level of personal service is up there amongst the best I have ever encountered. Run by a very experienced Japanese GM, Masanori Hasoya, the crowning achievement of Mandapa is Ambar, the spectacular bar at the very top of the resort, where Hosoya spearheaded a major transformation. He drove the vision to reimagine the space, collaborating with Singapore-based consultancy Proof & Company to blend Japanese and Indonesian elements into the menu. It was a stroke of genius.

A dazzling mix of ideas, all extremely successful. At Ambar, the cocktails are miraculous. Sympathetic with Indonesian ingredients, these are tastes unique to Mandapa, amazing concoctions, and to couple them with wide-ranging and expertly made Japanese cuisine as bar snacks is inspired. The sushi on offer is excellent and the sashimi (the local tuna - wow) is so fresh it practically leaps off the immaculately presented dish.

Ambar's success is evident each and every night. It attracts all ages, which is no mean feat at this level of luxury resort. The combination of world-class Japanese cuisine, award winning cocktails and surprisingly good nightly modern jazz is a runaway success. The position of the bar is the single best sunset vantage point in all Ubud.

Ambar allows outside guests as well who come from all over the island. Smart. Destination dining is not forgotten either, with Kubu, right down at the rushing river's edge in beautiful private bamboo cocoons. Kubu honours Bali’s untamed flavours through plant-based community sourcing and a zero-waste, root-to-leaf approach. It’s the most unique dining experience I have had in Indonesia.

Private dining cocoon at the river’s edge at Kubu

Being the great observer that I am, every moment of my time at Mandapa filled me with differing levels of awe. Every room category gets its very own Patih (Butler). This is extra special, you are one on one with him/her through WhatsApp and every single request is fulfilled, 24/7.

Mandapa taps into what all exclusive accommodations do these days, the experiential offerings. To attract guests of every demographic, management knows that guests want a variety of unique experiences to enjoy if they so choose to, both within and outside the property. Winning Best Wellness Retreat in Asia at the World Spa Awards, Mandapa Spa is beautiful. I had a fantastic treatment in the most beautiful room with the river languidly flowing right outside. Their renowned Disconnect to Reconnect program offers over 20 complimentary classes.

As for any hospitality business, whether flying, sailing, staying, or dining, it is the service that is the number one factor that makes for an unforgettable experience. At Mandapa, all 320 (yes, 320) staff exude the utmost professionalism coupled with that fore-mentioned and unmatched Balinese warmth.

My three nights (four stretched out days) were bliss. Mandapa was the single most difficult accommodation to leave in all my years of travel. So, upon that reluctant farewell, what did I do? I planned my return.

Just three months later, I returned. I booked again, flew to Singapore for an overnight then flew the 6.00am Singapore Airlines flight in Business Class (avoiding the Australian masses on low-cost carriers) to land early enough for that magical midday check-in. Another three nights of expected heaven, with all the same benefits of my first trip.

This time however, it was the beginning of peak season. And boy, Bali gets crowded. The clogged small streets of Ubud are no joy. Arriving at Mandapa was just as it was, the same welcome, the same serenity. I breathed a sigh of relief. But that did not entirely last.

My first trip in March was the off-season, usually wet but not this time. Mandapa was at low occupancy. I knew this next stay, arriving in June, would be the test if the resort could maintain its consistency when almost 100% occupied.

Mostly it delivered as expected. the only issues I had were due to the volume of people, especially at breakfast. The amount of families, some quite large, really surprised me. And infants. I can’t understand why anyone would bring such young children here.

Due to the vast layout of Mandapa, where villas are way down in the valley and the common areas not really walkable, golf buggies are the only mode of transport. This second trip, the paths were clogged with buggies toing and froing. I found a loss of serenity in this constant busy traffic.

Up at Ambar, walking in at 5.30 to catch the sunset, it was chock-o-block. The calm interactions with staff that I had in March were not repeated. I saw some younger staff appearing quite overwhelmed. Always with a smile but coupled with some visible anxiety.

I found myself dashing away when things got too crowded. Loud Americans were in abundance, and those, coupled with the young families with some out-of-control kids, was enough to make me retreat to my villa. I realised that in peak season, the only place if you seek calm, is within your own compound. During high season, this is what differentiates Mandapa from smaller, more established resorts based on a philosophy of calm. I'm looking at you, Aman.

Aman. It means peace across many languages. Practically next door to Mandapa, is Amandari, only the second Aman to open way back in 1989. Having not stayed there, I went to check it out and have lunch. The difference to what I had just come from could not have been more dramatic.

Such is the excellence of design, walking into the property did indeed lead me straight into peace. All I could hear was birdsong and the river down below. I saw only a few staff, walking in what looked like slow motion. Not a buggy in sight. I sat in the glorious, old school open-air bar with tables and rattan chairs placed far apart and ordered a G&T. The slow-motion barman made my drink to perfection and quietly welcomed me. Any cares I had left me in moments.

I realised then that this is what I wanted for my stay. Slow calm. Here, if I wanted to engage with others (if I could find them) I would do so as my choice. Mandapa is many things to many people. Aman, with its whisper of completely unpretentious exclusivity, exudes sophistication and gives you a chance to disconnect and breathe.

I've had a lion's share of stays at Amans, at an earlier time when I felt they were at their peak. For one of the originals, Amandari has not missed a beat. This was wonderful to see. I toured one of the suites. Just beautiful in its original, timeless and lovely design. The driver who took me back to Mandapa that afternoon, at the assistance of the personable Guest Relations Manager, was an older, handsome Balinese gent. He told me he had been working there since day one.

I guess I still have some of that Aman bug, after all.

I'm glad I had the two stays at Mandapa. It remains to date, the best all round resort I've ever stayed at. To be able to deliver all things to all people at this level is to be admired. For me, and my needs, my stays there during two distinct tourist periods have reaffirmed me to always choose wisely around what it is I really seek.

Twice Bitten

Ink

Please God, Not the Cod