River of Dreams

Australia is blessed to have an abundance of beautiful wine regions, turning out top class drops heralded around the world. 

But there is something unique about Margaret River, in the south west of Western Australia. Many things, actually. It’s the geography that perhaps stands it apart the most. More strongly maritime influenced than any other Australian region, with a climate not dissimilar to that of Bordeaux, it is remarkable for ones ability to be on such a beautiful, almost untouched ocean coastline one minute, to be alongside farmland and lush karri forests, to rolling vineyards the next.

I could go on and on about the region’s beauty, but it’s the wine that we’re really here for. In my early days of collecting wine, Margaret River was one of the first regions I visited. I consider myself very lucky to have tasted such pristine, glorious wine at that time, when I was on such a voyage of discovery. I didn’t realise I was tasting the best of the best at that time.

The many micro climates mean the production of so many wines that have their own unique stamp. The quality of the vines, the soil and the grapes are so supreme that Margaret River now produces a whopping 20 percent of Australia’s premium wine.

A relatively young Australian wine region, the potential of Margaret River gradually became apparent. Vasse Felix was the first commercial vineyard in 1967 and is the true winemaking pioneer in the region. Followed soon after by hallowed names like Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle, Cullen and Leeuwin Estate.

As for the wines themselves, there is a clarity and purity to them that give them such an individual personality. Touring the region recently, I was struck by just how different the varietals were from vineyard to vineyard, small blocks alongside each other producing completely different wines, with levels of spice and pepper in the reds noticeably changing.

There is no doubt that the effect of the landscape and the purity of the ocean is apparent in the wines produced here. Coupled with the mild Mediterranean climate, the overall flavour and balance found in almost all of the wines speak completely of the region. There is an individuality in the wines that are nothing less than striking.

Wines from here have always been pure, but after this most recent visit they are undoubtedly even more so, with winemakers reaching for that perfect clarity through more focus on the vineyard and on organic winemaking practices.

One hopes that on every return visit to a wine region, they will make new discoveries that show the stamp of a maker and the region as a whole at the present moment. I found that this time, experiencing Margaret River as a confident region still moving forward in its pursuit of perfection, vintage after vintage.

At a few wineries quite new to me, some of the discoveries that made my head turn and take notice this visit, included the glorious wines of WINDANCE ESTATE. My personal pick of their range the 2017 Shiraz, with a lovely nose of spice and florals opening up to red berries. On the palate, again, spice, so wonderful in a mid-weight shiraz, dancing alongside dark cherries and a mouthful of deep, ripe plums. Winner of a gold medal at the Sydney Wine Show, it really is a standout.

Image via Windance Estate

I was quite blown away by the magnificent wines of WINDOWS ESTATE, a small, boutique winery where winemaker Chris Davies takes complete control of every aspect of the process, from vineyard to bottle. The clarity in these wines are absolutely startling.

My personal picks surprised even me, as they included the 2017 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc, normally a variety I don’t enjoy. This was something else entirely, a very dry and superbly structured white, whose layers reveal slowly in the glass. More complex than it first appears, it’s very aromatic and leads to a palate where fine acidity underplays citrus notes and lovely minerality.  

There’s no shortage of stunning chardonnay in Margaret River, but the 2017 Estate Chardonnay stopped me in my tracks. Very Burgundian in style, with a flinty minerality that ripples through the rich, elegant wine. So much went on my palate that my brain could not keep up! A vivid flavour profile of grapefruit, lemon rind and stone fruits with a fine acid backbone, even the salt spray of the sea is evident through this. A truly superb wine and to me one of the very best Chardonnay’s in the country.

Image via Windows Estate

There were more highlights on this trip but I have to limit my articles somewhat!

With 187 wineries and counting, Margaret River is one of the world’s greatest wine regions. The winemakers unending quest to make wines of such beauty and perfect precision is evident and unrelenting. If you come here, I guarantee you will be mesmerised at how its beauty can be seen not only in the landscape and the strikingly beautiful light, but through the passion of the people working the vines and the cellar doors. The overall feeling one gets in Margaret River is one of wonder and respect. It’s intoxicating and good for the soul. I highly recommend you go, and raise as many glasses as you can.