The Pinot Fallback
One of the most brilliant things about a love of wine is the constant discovery of styles and varieties. It’s a never-ending quest to find something that rocks your world. That elusive drop that is the greatest you have tried in a very long time, leading you down a new path to explore similar examples and, as a result, becoming a favourite until another knockout discovery comes along.
Our palates change dramatically over the years. When I first started collecting wine, in the mid-late 1980’s, the bolder Shiraz wines of Australia couldn’t be beaten in my book, for many years. Now, my tastes have shifted and cover a wide spectrum, my palate more refined and discerning.
In the world of red wine, there is one varietal that stands tall and transcends fads, tastes and trends. The Pinot Noir grape has long been considered the king of them all. An ancient varietal with its roots in eastern France, Pinot Noir is highly expressive of its terroir. Notoriously difficult to grow, the great wines of Burgundy have lifted this noble grape to superstar status. Only Nebbiolo, which sees its greatest expressions blossom in central Italy, is considered a rival in the vinous world.
Pinot Noir, for me, is the one varietal that has remained a constant for my ever-changing palate over the decades. It is now being made in many differing styles, from light to deep and dark and brooding. There are levels of richness and structure in Pinot that I haven’t seen so dramatically displayed in any other red varietal. Now firmly entrenched right across the new world, I’ve watched the tide move constantly through all styles that this varietal is made.
If you are a red wine lover, as I am, when sometimes only red will do, it can be a challenge to find the right style in our world where heat levels are increasing year in, year out. Pinot is, and has always been, my fallback wine. The one that satisfies when slightly chilled on a warm day and works just as well through Autumn and all the seasons.
To have a range of Pinot Noirs in your collection, from various world wine regions, single vineyards and from different makers, is to have a wine style at the ready for any occasion. Once Pinot gets its hold on you, you begin to understand its complexity and know its universal suitability. I can’t see another wine being my fallback, go-to wine for a long time to come. There are still many other styles to try, thankfully, but Pinot in all its guises remains at the top of my “go-to” tree.
For a taster, here are three absolute rippers, of varying vintages, all very different in style, worthy of any Pinot lover’s attention. To break it down, I’ve simplified the tasting scenario to just a snapshot.
Pooley Cooinda Vale Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017
Coal River Valley, Tasmania
Style: Savoury, Elegant
Weight: Medium Bodied
Structure: Mineral, Fine Acidity
Spectrum: Spice, Bright Red Fruits
Concentration: Deep
Drink: 2-10 years
Tout Pres by Farr Pinot Noir 2010
Geelong, Victoria
Style: Aromatic, Rich
Weight: Medium – Full Bodied
Structure: Textural
Spectrum: Spice, Herbs
Concentration: Intense
Drink: NOW and for a decade
Savaterre Pinot Noir 2016
Beechworth, Victoria
Style: Complex, Velvet
Weight: Full Bodied
Structure: Bold, Concentrated
Spectrum: Spice, Dark Red Fruits
Concentration: Intense, Deep
Drink: 5-10 years+
All of these are worthy of your attention. Three of the countries absolute best. Stand by for more on the great wines of Tasmania and Beechworth, Victoria, in future editions of Mr. Robinson